Posted by: Googie | June 17, 2010

Exploring Bogota

I am usually very cautious while crossing roads, and I always follow the pedestrian crossing signals; but last evening I ignored it – big mistake. Before I knew what was happening, I was caught in the middle of oncoming traffic. I was standing on top of one of the white lines used to divide the road into lanes. Cars and buses and motorcycles were whizzing past me, and I got my fair share of honks and abuses by the angry drivers. If one of them had decided to ignore lane discipline, I was done for. After a nerve-wracking 60 seconds, which seemed more like an hour, there was a break in traffic, and I quickly scampered across towards the shocked white faces of the onlookers on the other side of the road :)

In my still shaken state, I went to the weekly couchsurfing English language practice meeting and met a lot of the local couchsurfing members, but Barbara was nowhere to be seen. I asked the other guys if she had already left before I came, but nobody remembered seeing any Polish girl. After spending a few hours talking English (finally!), I came back to my hostel and slept.

The next morning, Barbara came to my hostel and found me ordering my things in my dormitory. When I first saw her, my jaw almost dropped to the floor, because she bore a striking resemblance to Jana (later I discovered that it was only from certain angles).

From the hostel, we walked to a crowded corner where her friend from her hostel, a guy called Jose from Argentina, was selling photographs. He was a talented photographer and had travelled to quite a few countries in Latin America clicking pictures. We browsed through some of his stuff, and I promised to buy at least one snap from him. After that, Barbara & I walked around the historical centre of Bogota; spending a lot of time feeding pigeons at the Bolivar square.

Jose

With Jose and his photographs

Street

Random street in Bogota

Pigeons

Feeding pigeons in Bolivar Square

After a cheap but tasty lunch of pizza, we walked to the Botero museum, which houses Colombian artist Fernando Botero’s personal collection of work that he presented to the city of Bogota in 2004. Botero has a distinctive style of making everyone and everything obese in his paintings and sculptures.

FatHand

The large hand that greets you as soon as you step into the Botero museum

Fatman

One of Botero's "fat people" paintings

AdamEve

Botero's Adam and Eve sculpture

Adriana, an active couchsurfer from Bogota joined us in the museum. Later, we met a few other couchsurfers – Aga from Poland, and Oscar & Luis from Bogota itself. The local guys took us travelers to some really cool secluded parts of the city walking through narrow cobbled streets to a small place that was famous for the local drink chicha. Over bowlfuls of chicha they told us that it is actually illegal to brew this drink, and that the big beer brands have used their clout to have this ban imposed.

Walking

Walking around in Bogota

Alley

Through narrow, hidden alleyways

Chicha

Chicha

Later still, we went to Barbara’s hostel to meet Jose the photographer. After talking to him for a bit, I bought some of his pictures, and we went to get a dinner of Arepas. The next plan was to go dancing at some famous nightclub, but since I was quite tired, I said goodbye to them and asked them to carry on.

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Posted by: Googie | June 16, 2010

Bogota

From Cali, I caught a bus to Bogota, the capital city of Colombia. I was hesitant to take an overnight bus because of all the armed robbery related stories that I had heard, but since I am running short of time in Colombia, I had no other choice. The bus dropped me off in Bogota early in the morning, and I approached a policeman to help me with directions to my hostel. He called a younger policeman and put him in charge of me.

The young guy was surprised and excited to meet me, the only Indian he had ever seen. Within the limitations of my Spanish, we managed to talk about a few things while waiting for my bus. There were 2 other “touristy” looking people also waiting there, so I asked them if they were going in the same direction as me. It turned out that they were, so the 3 of us decided to share a taxi. I thanked the young policeman, and gave him a 10 Rupee note, which he gladly accepted.

Graffiti

Graffiti somewhere along the way

My companions in the taxi were a girl from France and a local Colombian man. The guy was a theatre artist who came to Bogota often to perform in theatre shows. He was a nice man and voluntarily gave both of us his phone number and asked us to call him if we ran into any trouble while in Bogota. We parted ways in the historical centre of Bogota and I carried on towards my hostel.

Pulsar

The Bajaj Pulsar is one of the most popular motorcycles in Colombia

After checking into my hostel and keeping my bags, I went in search of wi-fi and discovered a cosy little cafe with friendly staff and a really nice ambience. I had been in touch with a girl from Poland called Barbara who was reaching Bogota around the same time as I was. It turned out that she had arrived the previous day and we agreed to meet later in the evening at the weekly couchsurfing language practice meeting.

Traffic

Traffic in Bogota

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Posted by: Googie | June 16, 2010

Tattoo

On one of the evenings when we didn’t go partying, I went for a walk around the hostel. I happened to come across 2 tattoo parlours, so I thought I’d go in and take a look.

The first place looked quite professional, and as usual they were surprised to hear that I was from India. When I showed them my design, they said it was do-able and gave me a quote of 250,000 Colombian pesos along with a 10% off discount coupon.

The second place was much smaller, and had a single artist called Alvaro Calle who had been in the tattooing business for the last 16 years. The guys here were super excited when I showed them my design; and gave me a lot of suggestions on how it could be improved. I was also invited to watch the tattoo that was currently being made. They quoted 300,000 Colombian pesos to make my tattoo. Although this was a much higher price, I decided to get my tattoo made here as I liked these guys.

My design was that of a Buddha, but the head was from one picture and the body was from another. So the next day, the guys at the tattoo shop spent more than an hour simply resizing the head to match the body. When they were happy, they started the tattooing process.

SAM_3730

I wanted the head on the left to go on the body on the right

I had heard that getting a tattoo could be a painful process, so I grit my teeth and prepared for the first prick of the needle. But I hardly felt it. However over the next few hours, as Alvaro dug into the skin of my back to put the ink in there and constantly rubbed it to wipe the blood off, the pain increased. Also it hurt in some portions more than in others, but the pain was seldom unbearable. Once in a while, Alvaro would say “cinco minutos” (five minutes), go outside and stand in the middle of the road blinking his eyes. At other times, he would take his bicycle and go for a ride around the block. After close to 7 hours, the tattoo was finally complete.

SAM_2444

The final product

I thanked them, paid the money, bought some of the things that were needed to take care of the tattoo and walked back to the hostel. Since I could not easily reach the whole tattoo, Pedro said he would help me rub the moisturizer onto it for the next few days. How long the tattoo will continue to look good will mainly depend on how well I look after it for the next few weeks.

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